Ironwood Appliance Service — (904) 822-9883
A professional hood on 1970s ductwork will run at full speed and pull very little. What duct diameter, elbows and make-up air do to airflow in Mandarin.
Source: https://duvalviking.com/timber-notes/hood-airflow-old-kitchens/

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- Home

- Timber Notes

- What a Range Hood Has to Move

install · July 6, 2026

# Why the hood runs but does not pull

![Centred frame of a professional range set into a tiled alcove with the burner assembly opened up](/img/range-burner-05.webp)

Air pulled out of a closed-up house has to come back in somewhere.

The most common ventilation complaint we take is some version of “it runs but it
does not pull”. The blower is audible, the lights work, and a tissue held at the
edge of the hood barely moves.

In an older Mandarin kitchen the blower is rarely the reason. Air has to leave
the building, and the path it takes decides how much of the appliance’s rating
you actually get.

## What takes airflow away

These are cumulative, and in a kitchen where the hood was upgraded but the duct
was not, most of them are present at once.

Diameter. A duct narrower than the hood outlet is a restriction from the
first inch. Reducing to fit an existing hole in a soffit is the single most
common compromise made during a kitchen renovation, because the alternative is
opening the ceiling.

Flexible duct. Corrugated flex has far more internal resistance than
smooth-wall metal at the same nominal diameter, and it sags between supports,
which adds more. It also traps grease in every corrugation.

Elbows. Every ninety-degree turn costs airflow. A run with three of them in
it is not the same as a straight run of the same length, and older kitchens with
a soffit route rarely go anywhere in a straight line.

Length. Horizontal runs to an exterior wall on a larger lot — common out
toward Loretto — add resistance the whole way.

Crush damage. A duct pushed through a soffit or between joists during
construction is often flattened somewhere along its length. You cannot see it
and it never gets better.

The termination. A wall cap or roof cap with a screen fills with grease and
lint. It is outside, nobody looks at it, and it can halve the effective airflow
on its own. It is also the cheapest thing on this list to fix.

## Make-up air

The other half of the problem is that a hood cannot exhaust air the house has no
way to replace.

A high-capacity hood moves a serious volume of air, and many jurisdictions
require a make-up air provision above a certain airflow for exactly that reason.
Where none exists, one of two things happens.

In a tightly built house the hood stalls against its own vacuum: the blower turns
at full speed, the pressure difference climbs, and the actual flow collapses. In
a leakier older house — most of Mandarin’s 1970s stock — the replacement air
arrives down whatever else is open, which can mean pulling air backwards down a
water heater or fireplace flue. That is a safety matter, not a performance one.

A simple test: crack a window in the kitchen and run the hood again. If it
suddenly performs, the house was the restriction.

## What we can and cannot do about it

We diagnose and repair the appliance. We can tell you what the duct is doing,
what the termination looks like, and whether the hood is being defeated by the
building. We can replace blower motors, wheels, dampers, switches and lamp
holders, and we can service filters and correct their seating.

We do not run new ductwork or install make-up air systems. What we will do is
describe honestly, in the written estimate, what is appliance and what is house —
because a new blower motor fitted to a duct problem is money spent to change
nothing.

## The things that are the appliance

Not every complaint is the duct, and these are worth knowing.

A hood that has become much louder at the same setting usually has grease built
up unevenly on the blower wheel, which puts it out of balance. That noise climbs
for months before anything fails.

A blower that hums but does not turn is generally seized rather than dead — a
motor that sat through a humid summer, or a wheel jammed with hardened grease.

Speed settings that fail one at a time point at the switch, not the motor. Lamp
positions that flicker are usually corroded or loose holders rather than failing
lamps.

Air blowing down through the hood on a windy day is the backdraft damper not
closing: a flap fouled with grease, a lost counterweight, or a stuck damper at
the wall cap. Small part, large comfort effect, and in this climate it also lets
humid outside air into a conditioned kitchen all summer.

## Filters

Baffle filters work by forcing air to change direction sharply so grease is
thrown out of the stream. They only do that when they are clean and correctly
seated. A wash every few weeks keeps them working. A set that has not been washed
in a year is both a performance problem and a fire load sitting directly above a
professional range.

Booking Flat $129 diagnostic, credited toward the repair when you approve the work.

You get a written estimate before anything is opened up or ordered.

Call (904) 822-9883

Referenced
- Hoods
- Rangetops
- Mandarin
- Beauclerc
- Loretto

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Ironwood Appliance Service is an independent appliance repair company. We are not affiliated with, authorized by, or endorsed by Viking or its parent company. All brand names and model numbers are the property of their respective owners and are used only to identify the appliances we service.
